Suburb spotlight: This 1km road is home to New Zealand's best dining scene

There's so much more to a city than its centre. The best way to uncover a destination's hidden gems is to hit the suburbs. In this series, we shine a spotlight on some of New Zealand's must-visit neighbourhoods, looking at where the locals eat, drink, and play.

It's been immortalised in television, film and song, and even has its own fragrance; Auckland's most famous road is much more than a 1km stretch of asphalt linking the suburbs of Ponsonby and Grafton.

The main Karangahape Road drag, affectionately known as K’ Road, is the most colourful main street in the central business district and the cultural hotbed of the city. The neighbourhood isn't just restricted to ‘the road’ itself, the surrounding Cross, East and Pitt streets plus Mercury Lane, Poynton Terrace and Beresford Square also come into the fold.

Before the sex shops, art galleries and gay bars – and the motorway cut through – Karangahape Road was a premium shopping district. Before that, it was part of the walking route used by Māori to reach the Manukau Harbour. Until the mid 20th century it was the only central street Auckland with a Māori name.

How to get there: From Auckland Airport it's as easy as following State Highway 20 through the Waterview Tunnel on to SH16 before making an exit at Newton Road.

The closest train station to the neighbourhood is the Grafton station, a 15-20-minute walk away. Once the City Rail Link network is complete it will open up two new underground stations with entrances at Mercury Lane and Beresford Square. Several bus lines work the road.

Local landmark: The Las Vegas Girl at 335 Karangahape Road is the last remaining evidence of the road's history as a red-light district from the 1960s to 1990s. The large sign of a nude woman hangs on the facade of the building which now houses the bar and nightclub, Bamboo Tiger. The building has seen a mixed bag of tenants, including a hardware store, childrens’ clothing shop and the country's longest-running strip club.

Best known for: The slow wave of gentrification has made the road a destination for off-beat cafés and boutique shops. It's still known for its adult entertainment venues and concentration of LGBTQIA+- friendly bars.

What to do: Street art and heritage walks are cheap and accessible activities.

From Ponsonby Road to Myers Park, Upper Queen Street and Symonds Street Cemetery, follow the Karangahape Business Association's self-guided street art trail, taking over 50 works. Gallery hopping is another popular pastime – start with Artspace Aotearoa, Melanie Rodger Gallery, Tautai and Mokopōpaki.

Several notable buildings and sites line the road, including Samoa House, the first fale built outside of Samoa; Symonds Street Cemetery, the first official burial ground in Auckland; and St Kevin's Arcade, a Neo-Greek shopping and dining arcade that leads onto the city oasis of Myers Park.

Shopping is another reason to visit. Vintage and designer fashion outlets line the road and surrounding streets, including streetwear stores Arcade and Checks Downtown, high-end labels Hailwood and Maaike (by appointment only), and thrift outlets like Magic Hollow, Paper Bag Princess and Vixen Vintage Boutique.

Where to eat: Food and drink is where Karangahape Road really shines – it is arguably the best dining strip in the country where you can eat your way around every corner of the globe.

Mornings are best spent at Bestie at the light-filled end of St Kevin's Arcade. Also in the two-storey mall: Pici, where the cheesy cacio e pepe pasta is the order of the day; Gemmayze St for its mouthwatering Turkish food; Lowbrow for fast-food done well, plus iconic late-night burger joint The White Lady.

Eateries of the moment include Candela, an Iberian-inspired kitchen and bar; Atelier, a French tapas restaurant serving up beautifully presented plates; Pitt Street's Lebanese Grocer for shawarma and falafel, plus Cross Street's Bar Magda for an elevated take on Filipino cuisine.

Further down the road is long-standing restaurant Coco's Cantina where the spaghetti and meatballs topped with breadcrumbs and polenta chips are a must-try, while across the road is reliable pasta joint, Cotto.

Cheap and cheerful options include Satya Chai Lounge, Sri Pinang, Uncle Man's and Acho's. At 184 Karangahape Road is the Lim Chhour supermarket and food court, home to a range of Chinese, Malaysian, Thai and Japanese delights, plus Sneaky Snacky for its Instagram-famous doughnut burger.

Also worth mentioning: Fort Greene for its sourdough sammies, and Daily Daily for its single-origin coffee. The list goes on.

Where to drink: Wine bars and Karangahape Road go hand in hand.

Visit Bar Celeste for its brilliant selection of wines and delicious shared plates. Apero is another upscale wine bar known for its shared charcuterie plates and pork sausage. In the underbelly of St Kevin's Arcade is the Wine Cellar, which doubles as a music venue. Sister venue Whammy Bar is where many local bands have cut their teeth.

Taking over the pavement at 490 K’ Road, Madame George is known for its brilliant cocktails, modern Peruvian cuisine and welcoming hospitality.

The LGBTQIA+ scene is strong on K’ Road. Family Bar is a heaving multi-level icon on the road, while Eagle Bar is a popular gay-friendly spot that operates into the small hours. Elsewhere, there's G.A.Y and the newly opened Heaven.

For cabaret, visit the iconic drag restaurant Caluzzi, where the colourful show regularly spills into the footpath and the below-street-level, Phoenix Bar.

Where to stay: There are three hostel options right on the street, including Haka Lodge with both shared dorm and private room accommodation. Cordis Auckland right around the corner on Symonds Street is a premium option with five-star service and dining.

Events: First Thursdays is a street party that takes over the pavement on the first Thursday of every month. In July, Te Karanga a Hape will celebrate Matariki with art, performance, fashion and food.

Know a suburb we should spotlight? Send your suggestions to [email protected]